It is mid-November at the harbor in Hatteras village. With the cooler weather has come great activity. As day breaks, the harbor hums with diesel chugs, along with fumes and dark smoke, slamming truck doors, and radio chatter. Once all the boats have headed out, the harbor is hushed for the day.

Breaking the silence are the plops of plump schooling baitfish as they jump in the creek, the gentle laps of chilly water against worn wooden pilings, and the flap, flap, flap of the newly-returned brants as they propel themselves from the water back into the radiant air.  

The water in the harbor is like swirling, molten steel -- deep gray with silver highlights and metallic blue reflections from the blindingly clear sky.  Both take on autumnal hues of pumpkin and squash, hothouse orchid, and late-blooming rose. As the sun lowers, the colors deepen to ever richer tones before they are lost to the encroaching darkness.

There is a faint, distinctive whiff of king mackerel.  They are the reason most of the boats are gone.  This is a much-needed season of abundance for all the watermen.  They all shared the same quest today – the fall fish have arrived and the aptly-named king truly is king!

As the light begins to fail at day’s end, the working boats return to the harbor in Hatteras.  One after another, they follow the channels in the Pamlico Sound and then, with reduced speed, chug slowly through the no-wake zone at the breakwater.

Once inside, they queue for fuel at Oden’s Dock.  Commercial fishermen then head to the fish houses and hover in the creek, waiting their turn to pack out.  

The crews are ready for them.  They have assembled the waxy fish boxes and shoveled chipped ice into huge barrels. The outside lights are turned on, the hanging scales are checked, and this day there is such a good catch that they forego the conveyer belt end instead weigh the fish directly as they come off the boats and pack them right there on the dock.

There is variety, but mostly there are big, glistening king mackerels and chubby fatbacks, their preferred bait.  The catch also includes the last of the season’s flounder, some bluefish and mullet, and some colorful bottom fish.  Most have been caught in highly specific nets.  The charter crews who also fish commercially usually use hooks and lines rather than do the major conversion that will render their boats useless for paying fishing parties.    

Meanwhile, the strictly charter captains have returned to their slips.  They have been offshore in the Atlantic fishing for kings with live bait, and the customers are on a high.    The big, heavy kings perform eye-popping acrobatics as they chase the agile leaping bait.  These catches are tossed onto the hosed-down dock for pictures before they end up on the fish cleaning tables getting cut into rich, fat steaks.  

Soon the boats and gear will be washed down and readied for another day.  Satisfied watermen and harbor crews will shut off the lights and go home for a late supper and an early bedtime.  The working waterfront will shut down and be given over to the night herons’ fishing efforts.

Weather permitting, the fishermen will all return to the harbor very early in the morning’s first light, and the cycle will be repeated.  They will all pray for another day as successful as today.  

These days are too few and too far between for the men and women who fish for a living.


Note:  On our porch the smoker is working overtime.  There will be smoked mackerel pieces, smoked mackerel dip and smoked mackerel chowder for the holidays!

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