Celebrating
Hatteras Island watermen
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By IRENE
NOLAN
They
that go down to the sea in ships, that do business in great
waters; These see the work of the Lord, and his wonder in the
deep. For he commandeth, and raiseth the stormy wind, which
lifteth up the waves thereof. They mount up to the heaven,
they
go down again to the depths: their soul is melted because of
trouble. They reel to and fro, and stagger like a drunken
man,
and are at their wit’s end. Then they cry unto the
Lord in
their trouble, and he bringeth them out of their distresses.
He
maketh the storm a calm, so that the waters thereof are still.
—Psalm 107
The weather never seems to cooperate fully when Hatteras Island gathers
to celebrate its watermen.
Perhaps that’s just appropriate. After all, their
lives and
livelihoods are ruled by the weather, which often doesn’t
fully
cooperate.
And so it was again on Saturday, Sept. 15, for the third annual
“Day at the Docks, a Celebration of Hatteras Island
Watermen” and the fourth parade of boats and blessing of the
fleet.
A stormy Friday night as a cold front passed over the islands
brought a Saturday morning of stiff winds, a slight drizzle, and low,
gray clouds. The rain moved out to sea, and the clouds gave
way
to intermittent sun. But the wind kept blowing.
That’s been a hallmark of the event.
The first parade of boats and blessing of the fleet
was on Saturday night, Sept. 18, 2004, the first anniversary of
Hurricane Isabel, a devastating storm that destroyed most of the
eastern end of Hatteras village and cut an inlet between Hatteras and
Frisco.
That first event was a celebration of the spirit of villagers and their
recovery from the storm. But it was a gray, cool, windy
evening
with a sunset that was hidden by the clouds. Later at a dance
at
the village’s volunteer fire department, a light rain failed
to
dampen spirits.
The next year, in 2005, villagers expanded their celebration to include
the Day at the Docks event on the Hatteras village
waterfront. It
was designed to showcase the coast’s disappearing working
waterfronts and to educate islanders and visitors about the life and
work of the island’s watermen and the culture and history of
fishing for a living. It was scheduled for Saturday, Sept. 17.
That year’s event was almost blown out of the water by
Hurricane
Ophelia, which aimed for the Outer Banks and brought hurricane-force
winds to the islands on Thursday, Sept. 15. The island was
evacuated for the storm and visitors were not allowed back for a
day. The Day at the Docks and blessing of the fleet was
almost
cancelled, but the intrepid organizers pulled it off, though on a
smaller scale.
Last year, the weather was warm and humid for the event, which was well
attended and very successful. A squall with gusty winds blew
through in the late afternoon, tumbling exhibits and almost taking down
the exhibit tent. But the blessing went on – again with some
windy weather.
This year, Saturday’s damp, gray start to the day
didn’t dampen attendance or the enthusiasm of the crowd.
The folks who came visited the exhibits from groups that included North
Carolina Marine Fisheries, the North Carolina Aquarium on Roanoke
Island, the North Carolina Coastal Federation, the Graveyard of the
Atlantic Museum, the Monitor National Marine Sanctuary, the U.S. Coast
Guard Auxiliary, and Dare County Libraries – and many more.
There were porch talks by folks in the industry, including many of the
older watermen, who told stories of what fishing for a living was like
in days gone by. There were competitions, demonstrations, and
boat tours and a very popular kids’ fishing contest.
Kids on Stage, a new Hatteras Island theater company for youngsters,
made its debut with “Fish Tales,” a collection of
three
stories by local author Suzanne Tate.
There was food to eat – from hot dogs to local
shrimp.
Folks waited in a long line to taste and vote for the chowders in the
second chowder cook-off, sponsored by the Hatteras Island Cancer
Foundation and the Salty Gourmet. In the cooking demonstrations,
Michael Peele handed out 360 fish cakes in 20 minutes. Brian Van Druten
was out of his first 50 clams casino before he brought out the next 50.
Nikki and Richie Spear won over the crowd with their presentation of
skate wing. Don Oden of the Breakwater restaurant did fried
scallops and shrimp with remoulade sauce. And there was also
Down
East style scallop fritters and shrimp stew.
Music was also part of the day, and after the exhibits closed, The
Frisco Jubilee with the Diamond Shoals Band and Martin and Friends
played bluegrass and good foot stompin’ music from the stage
while people sat in the bleachers and listened and others visited with
friends.
Day at the Docks is a success because of the dedication of the
volunteers who plan it all. They are almost all folks
involved in
the fishing industry in one way or another. They are
commercial
fishermen, charter boat captains, fish house owners, businesses around
the harbor in Hatteras, and the spouses and families of watermen.
They are all united by their drive to preserve the fishing industry on
the coast with its rich culture, heritage, and history.
The working waterfronts, not only on the North Carolina coast but in
other states, are seriously endangered as waterfront land values
skyrocket and more and more waterfront property is bought for
residential development.
The maestro of Day at the Docks is Lynne Foster, along with her husband
Ernie, who organizes the parade of boats and the blessing of the
fleet. Ernie’s father, Ernal Foster, is credited
with
beginning the charter-boat industry on Hatteras Island with his first
boat, The Albatross I, which was built in 1937.
Lynne would be the first to say that the event is not a one-woman
show. She was joined this year by a small army of
volunteers. She figures there were more than 60 of them,
including students from Cape Hatteras School of Coastal Studies, Dare
County Parks and Recreation Department, and many community people who
are eager to help. You can add to that all of the commercial
fishermen and charter boat captains who stayed at the dock that day to
help with the events.
Funding for Day at the Docks came from a variety of sources, including
the Outer Banks Visitors Bureau, last winter’s
waterman’s
roast, the North Carolina Department of Agriculture Seafood Marketing,
Environmental Defense, and many individual businesses that are part of
or support the industry.
As the day’s events came to an end, folks milled around on
the
waterfront. There were older couples, young singles, families
with babies in strollers and youngsters, some of who were soaking wet
after having taken a dive into the harbor after the kids’
fishing
contest. Among them were Hatteras natives, newcomers to the
island, and visitors.
“Someone mentioned to me,” said Lynne Foster,
“that it feels like a reward after a summer when no one has time to enjoy family
and friends. It is really an island get-together at which
visitors are most welcome.”
By 5 p.m., the sounds of engines revving up dominated the
harbor.
A steady stream of boats started out through the breakwater and into
the sound to get ready for the boat parade.
I’ve always watched the parade and blessing from the docks,
though I have been invited to go on the boats before.
This year, I decided to get a new perspective and took Lynne and Ernie
Foster up on their invitation to ride on the Albatross I.
We headed out about 5:30. When we passed the breakwater and
got
into the Pamlico Sound, all I could see were boats on the horizon
– big boats, small boats, medium-size boats.
Commercial
fishing vessels with buoys and other gear. Sleek charter
boats. And even a few small pleasure craft. There
were
about 40 boats in all.
Their captains were all milling around waiting to get in line for the
parade.
They were on the radio, talking back and forth with each other as they
maneuvered to line up and good naturedly fussing at each other about
the process.
“They sound like a bunch of women hanging out their
laundry,” said Mike Scott with a grin. Mike was
Ernie’s “mate” for the parade.
He’s a
boatbuilder, former owner of Scott’s Boatyard in Buxton, and
good
friend of the Albatross Fleet. He runs inshore charter
fishing
trips on the Albatross I.
Milling around and lining up for the parade was a challenge in stiff
northeast wind, blowing a steady 15 to 20 with some higher
gusts.
The sound was choppy.
Eventually, all the captains managed to get into a line of sorts,
behind Ernie as he led the parade on the Albatross I, the oldest of the
working boats on the Hatteras waterfront.
We sailed into the harbor, which was lined with people waving,
cheering, and shouting greetings. Ernie headed into the
assigned
boat slip for the blessing in front of Hatteras Harbor Marina, about in
the center of the waterfront. Most of the boats headed into
slips
other than those they normally occupy to get all of the boats clustered
together for the event.
Since we were first in, we sat and watched as the parade of boats came
into the harbor and the captains maneuvered into their assigned slips.
This year for the first time, a community choir, comprised of singers
from several churches and accompanied by JoAnne Pullen, sang hymns and
patriotic anthems during the parade.
By this time, the sky had cleared to a lovely Carolina blue with wispy
clouds. The wind was still blowing, but the harbor was
somewhat
sheltered. The sounds of “Rock of Ages,”
“God
Bless America,” and “America the
Beautiful” could be
heard over the sound of the boat engines.
For about 45 minutes, the boats paraded past, as their names and
captains were broadcast on the marine radio and the speakers on the
dock.
It was absolutely fascinating to watch those watermen maneuver the
boats in the narrow creek in the harbor and into the slips.
The slip next to ours belongs to David Wilson on the Godspeed, a long,
sleek lavender charter craft. It’s his regular
“parking spot,” so he’s pretty familiar
with getting
in there. However, it was a windy evening.
He stopped several hundred yards down the harbor, turned around, and
gunned his engines in reverse at a pretty good speed and backed toward
us into his slip. All of us – except maybe Mike
Scott and
Ernie -- gasped as the boat rushed toward us. Then Wilson
backed
perfectly into the slip, which has only a foot or so to spare on each
side of the boat, reversed his engines, and stopped dead. As
someone explained, he had to move fast in the brisk wind or his boat
would have blown off course before he got to the slip.
The last into the harbor was a U.S. Coast Guard rescue boat, which got
a large round of applause from the onlookers.
After poetry and prayers and a blessing by the Rev. Cory Oliver, of the
Hatteras United Methodist Church, the ceremony ended with a rendition
by the choir of “Eternal Father,” the Navy hymn.
Michael Peele and his family on their traditional island shad boat took
the pastor and a memorial wreath to commemorate all deceased watermen
back out into the sound.
The wind was still blowing, and it was a wet ride on the small shad
boat back into the waters. The pastor offered a prayer, the
wreath was tossed in the water, and the folks on the boat watched as
the wind carried it away and into the September sunset.
Click here to see a slideshow of
the events at Day at the Docks.
Click here to see some Faces in the Crowd
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