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April
20, 2011
Island Cooking:
Enjoy your tuna
catch all year by canning it
By LYNNE FOSTER
There is something to catch on a charter out of Hatteras all year
round, but April marks the unofficial opening of the “season” for the
charter fleet.
Warmer
weather and the usual abundance of yellowfin tuna in the Gulf Stream
beckon anglers who have been penned up all winter. Weekends
especially book up early and quickly.
The
star catch this time of year is yellowfin tuna, although other fish are
taking the baits, including blackfin tuna. Both can be used
the
same way.
The
firm steaks are excellent for grilling, but there are many other ways
to enjoy this savory saltwater seafood.
We
had a beat up old skiff some years ago that our nephew worked on one
summer and named “Chicken of the Sea.” With apologies to the
manufacturer that bears the same name, home-canned tuna far surpasses
any commercial product.
We
can tuna (I really mean Ernie cans tuna.). It is a great way
to
preserve a catch and enjoy it all year or at least until the next
fishing trip.
HOW
TO CAN FRESH TUNA
Sterilize
canning jars and canning lids by boiling them in a large pan on the
stove.
Cut
the cleaned fish (with its blood line removed) into chunks,
approximately the size of ice cubes.
Soak
chunks in a chilled heavy salt brine solution overnight.
The
next day, remove the fish from the brine with a slotted spoon and
completely fill each jar with the fish chunks. Screw the lids
on
tightly and then place the jars upright into a large pot of boiling
water. Cover the pot with its lid.
The
entire jar with lid must remain under water during the entire process,
so be sure the pot is tall enough. You will also want to
ensure
the jars fit closely enough that they do not fall over. Once
the
water returns to a boil, lower the heat to a rolling simmer.
Cook
for 8 hours, checking to be sure the water has not evaporated and the
jars remain under water. Add boiling water as
needed. (A
pressure cooker is much faster, but we do not use one, so if you do,
follow the manufacturer’s directions.)
Carefully
remove the jars and place on a cooling rack. There is a
special
tool for this available where canning jars are sold that is really
useful. It is also inexpensive, so I recommend you get one
rather
than risk getting burned.
Within
minutes you will hear a popping sound coming from the lids.
That
sound indicates the seal is good. If any of the jars do not
seal
properly (no pops), you should use the fish immediately. Do not attempt to can it
again.
Once
cooled, the jars of canned tuna can be stored in a cupboard or
pantry. It is not necessary to refrigerate them unless they
have
been opened and the fish unused. Not likely!
They
will keep for years!
When
you do open the tuna there are many easy ways to enjoy the
fish.
The most obvious is tuna salad. Everyone has a favorite
recipe,
usually one you grew up with. Use your own canned tuna just
as
you would a commercial brand and then serve it on a green salad, in a
sandwich, on a crostini, in a pita, or open-faced with cheese broiled
on top. You will be delighted with the flavor and the texture.
I
like tuna/macaroni salads for summer suppers, and a favorite of mine
unites flavors from the sunny shores of the Mediterranean
Sea.
After all, tuna is caught there too.
MED-STYLE
MACARONI SALAD
1
jar of home-canned tuna
1
box small pasta shells (Not only are they the appropriate shape for a
seafood salad but they also capture some of the small chopped pieces of
veggies and cheese.)
1
tablespoon plain Greek yogurt
1
tablespoon fresh feta cheese plus more for garnish
1/2
jar (6.5 ounce jar) roasted red peppers, chopped
1/2
jar (6.5 oz. jar) sun-dried tomatoes, chopped small
1
tablespoon artichoke hearts, chopped
1
teaspoon sun-dried garlic spread
1
tablespoon small pitted Greek, Provencal or Tunisian olives, chopped,
plus more for garnish
1/2
small onion, chopped
Sea
salt and freshly ground pepper. (I use Urfa pepper from
Turkey
for a distinctive taste but any black pepper will do.)
I
also add about a teaspoon of a traditional Arabic spice mixture called
Ras el Hanout that I order online. It contains cardamom and
saffron, among other exotic spices. But the dish is just as
good
without it. Dried oregano pairs nicely with the fish, the
feta
and the other Mediterranean ingredients.
Cook
shells according to package directions but not too long. You
want
them to be somewhat firm, so taste one before you think they are done
cooking. Drain and immediately cool.
Drain
the tuna and place in large bowl. Lightly break up chunks
with a
fork, not too small. Add cooked, cooled shells.
Don’t worry
about the cooking liquid that will cling to the shells. It
helps
the other ingredients to adhere to the pasta.
Stir
in the yogurt and feta to get a creamy texture. Add other
ingredients. Taste and adjust. Sprinkle on the
garnish of
olives and feta cheese just before serving.
Store
in fridge until ready to serve. This is a good picnic dish
since
it is all in one - fish, pasta, and veggies.
Another
easy but elegant summer dish is Italian tuna and cannellini (white
beans) salad. Just a few ingredients are added so the tuna
really
shines. That is why home canned tuna is best. It is
a good
appetizer and also a light main course dish for hot days.
TUNA AND CANNELLINI
1
jar home-canned tuna
2
cans cannellini (white beans)
Fresh
lettuce
1
red onion
Fresh
garlic bread crumbs
Good
extra-virgin olive oil
Sea
salt and fresh ground black pepper
Fresh
cut herbs. Use what you have, but it is really good with fresh
marjoram, oregano, or sage.
Make
bread crumbs from garlic bread by crumbling the cooked bread and then
drying on a baking sheet in a low oven until firm.
Drain
the tuna and drain and rinse the beans and arrange atop lettuce leaves
on a platter.
Thinly
slice rounds of red onion and place on top of tuna and beans.
Top
with bread crumbs, salt and pepper, and chopped fresh herbs and dribble
olive oil over all.
Note
that the recipes can use freshly cooked tuna too. Simply
chunk
and boil. Or you can grill or sear tuna fish and it will
complement the recipes very well.
If
you cannot get out to the Gulf Stream to catch tuna yourself, ask for
it in the local seafood markets here on the islands where it will be
fresh and caught locally. Otherwise you might as well eat the
“other” brands!
(Lynne
Foster lives in Hatteras village with her husband, Ernie. Together they
operate The Albatross Fleet of charter boats. They actively support the
sustainable practices of the island’s commercial fishermen and the
preservation of Hatteras Island’s working waterfront. Both
love
to cook seafood and entertain friends, and Lynne loves to experiment
with recipes for locally caught seafood.)
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