Island Free Press - Places to go and things to do

Change is not only in the air, but also in the water
…WITH SLIDE SHOW

By JOEY CRUM

Every surfer knows that there are a lot of variables that have to come together for the surf to be good. To mention just a few, there has to be an offshore wind, a decent swell in the ocean, and a good sandbar for the waves to break on.

We have had plenty of good strong swells this fall, but for a good part of it, the sandbars have been bad. It’s truly disheartening for a surfer to see a good swell go to waste.

The first jetty comes alive on a strong north swell. We have had a few incredible north swells this fall, but they were ruined by a lack of a good sandbar and the presence of a strong southwest wind, or, as Erik Datson calls them, “south worst” wind. It’s hard to see the potential for something great, only to see that potential die because of an initially unseen variable.

This leads many surfers -- and fishermen -- to hate the weather forecasters. Well, maybe hate is too strong a word, because it’s a love-hate relationship. I can’t speak for the fishermen, but I don’t know of a surfer out there that doesn’t spend a good deal of time checking various weather and surf forecasts. People have gone as far as to say that this strange and interesting addictive forecast-checking behavior is near “religious” for surfers. Surfers who claim they don’t “check the forecasts” are liars (just a joke, sheesh).

Lately, there has been a good deal of talk about change throughout the surfing community, and I’m not talking politics. Of course, there are some obvious changes with the season and all, but to the delight of every surfer on Hatteras Island, we have got some great new sandbars. It took just one good nor’easter to change our wretched sandbar predicament. It’s amazing just how much sand can be moved around in one strong storm, and anyone living here could attest to that. For the first time in years, the sandbars in Avon are looking mighty good. Breaks between Avon and Buxton aren’t looking too shabby themselves. Last but not least, the first jetty sandbar looks spot on. We surfers are downright excited about it. For a surfer living here, the change has come.

Now that things are looking up for surfers on Hatteras, the water temperature is going down. That’s not entirely a bad thing in some regards. The lineup has become uncrowded. Plus, we get to wear some awesomely sweet wetsuits that could be regarded as superhero suits -- maybe?

It’s one thing to paddle out in board shorts or a swimsuit, in 75-degree water, but it’s a whole other monster to try and surf wearing 10 pounds of rubber in 40-degree water. In other words, surfing in the winter is tough. It’s really, really cold. Still, it’s one of the things that surfers have come to embrace (and/or despise). It’s comparable to the “wussy” test in elementary school, except those who don’t pass the test aren’t necessarily considered wussies. Surfing in the winter separates the hardcore surfers from the rest. However, I’m not calling out any so-called committed surfers who don’t surf in our colder months. (You know who you are!)

In some strange and possibly sadistic fashion, surfing in the winter seems to be more memorable. Most avid surfers will tell you that their most memorable experiences surfing here have been in a wetsuit. It’s a common misconception that hurricanes produce most of our good surf. They simply do not. Don’t get me wrong. We love hurricane swells. It’s almost the only time we are able to get good waves in our warmer months. Still, truth be told, the majority of our good surf comes from lows associated with cold fronts. Unfortunately, most of these lows that come off of our coast, in the unique way that produces good surf for us, come in our colder months.

Another good reason surfing in the winter means so much to us is because we are usually surfing with only a few close friends, or at least other surfers whom we know well. I sometimes think about the times I had as a young kid surfing here in winter with my friends and how I will never experience anything like that again. It is a melancholy feeling, mixed with nostalgia, sadness, and joy. That was a great time in my life, but like the sandbars around here, it changed. I am sure anyone could relate to my experience.

Still, I look forward with hope to the changes to come, especially now that we have some sweet new sandbars! Yeewww!

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